Capt Ken Daubert's                             Bass-FROG.com

Designer Bass   FROGs

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FROG Hook Page

 

The Weedless, Cross-Planar, Adjustable FROG Hook

 

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This is CaptKen's   "Cross Planar" FROG Hook design. This screw-on coiled weedguard holder raises the position of the elastic rubber band on hooks that are not Coplanar with respect to the hook's barb, hook point, and eye of the hook. It is actually adjustable to create   "Cross Planar" Protection. Of course, all of the handmade FROGs come with the hook positioned perfectly, but when you are setting hooks and catching fish, the hook will begin to change its shape. You will need to use needlenose pliers to return it to the correct position for ultimate weed protection and hook setting ability. The FROGs are designed so that you can change the hook when it becomes damaged, breaks a point, becomes dull or just metal fatigued from catching too many big fish. Always consider replacing it. In fact, with this FROG Lure, you are not limited to this hook size, you can request a larger size, or you can even use another style of any hook you like. Further below, I have pictured some hook options that I and others have successfully used in the past with the FROGs. But this is the hook I designed, use, and provide with the FROGs.

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They are not only excellent hooks for the FROG, but you can also quickly switch to a soft jerk bait, hooking it through the head. Or, you can quickly slap on a Senko & fish it "wacky style" in the weeds before switching back to the FROG. They are also excellent for fishing shiners weedless.

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Always check the hook point before using the FROG Hook. The point of the hook should be just peeking below the elastic band and below the barb. This position will allow a little better protection when the FROG lands hard after a cast. Also, every time you catch a bass, check the point again and use needlenose pliers to correct it. This is the optimum position for ultimate weed protection and hook setting .

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Always check the hook for proper alignment as in the photo above with respect to the weedguard.

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The hook in the photo above would be more difficult to keep from snagging on obstructions. 

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The Banjo Minnow Coplanar Weedless Hook is specially designed to accept elastic rubber band weedguards. The #1 hook is just the right size for the FROG.

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The Mustad #37140 works well with a homemade single strand stainless steel wire weedguard.

 

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The Matzuo Weedless Kahle Hook & the Eagle Claw 151W are two commercially wired hook solutions.         

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The Stinger Hook

The Stinger Hook which can be rigged surprisingly weedless ---is deadly at nailing bass that try to "short strike" or steal just the ends of the Skitter Legs as they "buzz" by across the surface. It is also deadly on bass that try to come up and just slowly and lightly "taste" the FROG.

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The Stinger Hook can be used alone or in combination with the big FROG Hook on the lips. However, given the choice, it would be much better to hook a heavy bass with the big lip-hooked FROG Hook, especially in heavy cover. The Stinger Hook is surprisingly weedless, but it can become even more weedless if you add the piece of tubing as shown in photos below because the tubing holds the hooks up horizontal with the water surface and the FROG body, allowing the FROG to even be stopped on matted vegetation without hanging up. The FROG body runs interference for the hook points. The Skitter Leg / Stinger Hook Accessory Kit comes with a size  #1 on the back eyelet of the centerpin. It is not meant to be used to efficiently land trophy bass. The bigger meat hook on the front will do that if you get a big bass to inhale the FROG which happens on a regular basis, especially with the bigger bass. But the Stinger Hook is meant to  catch all of those other bass --- that usually get away, because they target only the Legs.

You can upgrade the size of the Stinger Hook to a 1/0 without much change in the float behavior, but a 2/0 will begin to sink the butt end of the FROG. However, I sometimes use a #2/0 size hook when I fish the FROG without the kahle style front hook, using the Stinger only. The front hook, however, acts as a keel keeping the FROG on track and prevents side to side wavering when the FROG is moving at higher speeds. As long as the FROG is moving  forward, the butt will not sink, and the larger sized hook gets a bigger bite into the fish, allowing you a better chance of landing the big one. You can get these replacement double Stinger Hooks in the  mentioned sizes from Jann'sNetcraft.com  Look for the Mustad Model #7826 in sizes #1, #1/0 and 2/0.

 

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The blue tubing on the middle FROG is a soft latex that can be pushed back to allow the Stinger Hook to be attached and immobilized in a horizontal position where it rides above surface matted vegetation. It is also positioned behind the FROG body where the FROG runs intereference with the vegetation to protect the hook points.

Other types of stiffer tubing can also be used by inserting the hook point through the tubing.

(see photo on the far left)

 

 

Texas Rigged Stinger Hook

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One great way to make the Stinger Hooks even more weedless is to add two thin noodles of soft plastic to form a "Tadpole Tail". It's basicly a Texas Rigged Stinger Hook. With he hook rigged in this manner it becomes extremely weedless and you then do not need the "Stabilizer Tubing" shown in the previous photos, and also, you do not need the "Leg Spreader". The "Tadpole Tail" can be used with either the Kicking legs or the Skitter Legs, and they do not interfere with hook setting if you use thin pieces of soft plastic. The "Tadpole Tail" above was made from a Zoom Spinner Bait Trailer. Simply cut the two tail pieces off separately and attach them. You can also cut them of short at the bend of he hook to make them less obvious. The longer tails actually look very attractive, especially with the Skitter Legs, and they enhance the appearance.

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